Leslie Williams: My top drinks for your Christmas trolley, from wine to non-alcoholic options

Christmas Dinner wines

What to serve with Christmas dinner is the most fraught drinks decision of the year in many houses. Not mine, I simply drink what I am in the humour for on the day. However, it helps that I always have several bottles from which to make my choice.

In the past I have served Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Red Burgundy, Morgon Beaujolais; Californian Pinot Noir, Vintage Champagne, Napa Valley Zinfandel and Cru Classé Red Bordeaux. Champagne and Cru Classé Bordeaux are not usually recommended because they are rather drier in style, but I didn’t regret it – the wines were delicious and matched well enough. The bottom line is: this is a celebratory day and if you have a favourite wine you want to drink, go for it.

Roast turkey is an easy match because the meat is neutral and almost any wine will make an impression. Ham, stuffing, parsnips and other trimmings make things more complicated. I’m afraid nothing goes with Brussels sprouts, bar maybe New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

For a large group, go with richer styles of wine. Choose Chardonnay over Pinot Grigio, Syrah over Cabernet/ Merlot. Pinot Noir is a classic match for turkey as is Beaujolais Cru (Morgon, Fleurie). With a mixed group, drinking red and white wine you could opt for a Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay from the same producer, say Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (or Villa Maria to reduce the budget), or Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge from say Louis Jadot.

My suggestions below are a little leftfield but worth the risk, I promise.

Herdade Sao Miguel, Alentejo, Portugal – €19.99

The red wines of Alentejo are always generously fruited and punch above their price point. Bright red and black berry fruits, luscious on the palate, weighty and structured with touches of spice and dried fruits on the finish.

This will cope with anything from the saltiest ham to the driest turkey to the most bitter sprouts.

La Granja Verdejo-Viura, Castilla Y Leon, Spain – €9.99

This is my go-to Spanish white under a tenner and the red is also worth a try. A blend of Rueda’s Verdejo and Rioja’s Viura this tastes a lot more than it costs. Pear and floral aromas, zingy and crisp, lemon verbena touches and bitter lemon tanginess on the palate, crisp and fresh — perfect for fish or light pasta dishes.

Jordan Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2020, South Africa – €26

From a stunningly beautiful vineyard in Stellenbosch with aromas of lemon oil and pear, and touches of vanilla and butterscotch (from the oak); but on the palate this is clean and vibrant with ripe melon and rich citrus flavours and a luscious mouth-filling character. Try with roast pork or
chicken or with fish in a creamy sauce.

Rioja Vega Semi-Crianza 2022, Spain – €11.99

Juicy, ripe and textured with some red fruits hitting the palate first but darker fruits dominating the mid- palate and finish with some spice notes coming through. Delicious and great value. Rioja Vega Crianza and Reserva also recommended.

Matsu ‘El Recio’, Toro, Spain – €23.95

From 90-year-old vines, many pre-phylloxera on sandy, pebbly soils. Rich and complex with chocolate and dark berry fruits, silky and supple on the palate with a long finish– perfect for a complex series of flavours as found in Christmas dinner. “El Recio” translates as The Tough One – there is also a younger vine version and an older vine version with a younger man and an older man depicted on the label and a stunningly good white called ‘El Jefa’ from Malvasia.

Aperitif

Sparkling wine is the perfect aperitif so check out the suggestions in my Fabulous Fizz feature.

For Christmas Pudding, Mince Pies, and Christmas Cake

It has to be Port, surely the one wine every house should have open at this time of year.

Remember that a bottle of Ruby or Reserve port will last a couple of weeks at least (vintage port a little less), and aged Tawny Port for a few months.

Casal dos Jordões Organic Finest Reserve Port - €31.95

One of the few organic Port Houses making wines in a rich supple style. This is also available in half-bottles (€17) and the Tawny Reserve is also recommended, and costs a little less. This pours a rich inky red with aromas of elderberry jam and chocolate, richly textured with sweet primary fruits and some balancing acidity.

After Dinner Drinks

For after-dinner Scrabble or a blockbuster movie on the TV you need something to sip. Irish cream is the classic option, or if you want something stronger perhaps Cognac or Irish Whiskey. My first recommendation combines the best of the latter two.

2010 Cognac Cask Bushmills Causeway Collection, 53.8% ABV, 700ml - €125

The Bushmills Causeway Collection is just one hit after another and this is one of the best editions yet. Launched on November 9 last, this is a rare Cognac Cask-finished Bushmills that spent its first seven years in Oloroso and Bourbon casks and a further six in Cognac casks from the Charente. The resulting whiskey is remarkably smooth, belying its high ABV and with layers of complexity rare in a 13 year old whiskey.

Pale gold, honey and toffee apple aromas, smooth on the attack with honeycomb and light spice at first followed by prickly black pepper, and finishing with sweet cognac notes mingling with cut grass, cinnamon and dried apricots. Delicious. Also just released is a second remarkable whiskey in the Causeway Collection should your budget run deeper — 1999 New American Oak Cask (€450). This remarkable whiskey has just two inputs — the original Bushmills New-Make and the new American Oak Casks in which it has aged for 24 years. Vanilla, coconut, butterscotch, chocolate, and lingering spice — remarkable.

Irish Cream Liqueur

Yes Baileys is still excellent and you can pick up a bottle for half nothing in any supermarket, but there are now several excellent Irish cream liqueurs out there to choose from including Coole Swan made by the Brady Family in Co Meath, and of course Five Farms made exclusively from milk sourced in Co Cork. This year however I am recommending one you might not know, from the Connemara Gaeltacht.

Micil Connemara Irish Cream Liqueur, 17% ABV, 70cl - €29

Micil first appeared on these pages because of their 100% barley poitín made from a 170 year old recipe by the 5th generation of the O’Griallais family — Padraig and Jimín.

They now have gin, whiskey, and this cream liqueur. This is a blend of Irish whiskey, Irish cream, and Ppoitín.

Aromas of fudge, condensed milk and chocolate, creamy, spicy, butter caramel and whiskey flavours, with a clean crisp finish thanks to acidity from the poitín. Baileys for grown-ups is what my friend calls it — she is not wrong.

Craft Beer for Christmas Dinner

Of the hundreds I could mention I’ve picked just two I think will work with Christmas Dinner. An old favourite and a recent collaboration. For more suggestions visit your local craft beer specialist — they know more than me — e.g. Michael Creedon in Bradleys or Jimmy Redmond in Redmonds.

Bradleys & Dot Brew “Bang On IPA”, 6.0% ABV, 440ml - €3.50

Brewer Shane Kelly is a bit of a magician and his barrel-aged beers are some of the most fascinating drinks I’ve tasted. Another collaboration with Bradleys is due shortly, so stay tuned. Bang-On IPA is exclusive to Bradleys and has lots of tropical fruits and weighty malt flavours, with texture provided by flaked and malted oats. Mosaic and Centennial hops add fragrance and punch. Delicious.

Kinnegar Rustbucket Rye IPA, 5.1% ABV, 500ml - €3.65

This is not a hop-bomb but much more balanced with a nice mix of malt and spice from the Rye-Barley mix. Spice and roundness with a pleasing mouth-filling complexity.

Cocktails

Firstly, I recommend investing in Oisín Davis’s new cocktail book, Irish Kitchen Cocktail (Ninebeanrowsbooks.com) and available in Eason and good bookshops. The book is crammed with easy recipes, using all your favourite spirits.

If you want to make things even easier I warmly recommend the pre-mixed cocktails from CraftCocktails.ie. the folk behind Dublin’s brilliant Bar 1661.

They deliver nationwide and the quality is top notch.

An alcohol-free selection

In previous years I have struggled to find non-alcoholic drinks that I could recommend with a clear conscience as I considered much of what was on offer undrinkable. Thankfully, things have changed in the last couple of years.

1. Homemade Lemonade

A quick google of “Darina Allen’s Lemonade Recipe” is one suggestion, or if you look on irishexaminer.ie you will find at least three that I have recommended in the past including one from my aunt and the one Bev in L’Attitude 51 uses. Richmount Elderflower Cordial is also recommended and available from premium retailers.

2. Tinta de Verano

This is simply half and half red wine and lemonade — it translates as ‘red wine of summer.’ Use a non-alcoholic red wine mixed with good lemonade (Club Lemon is what the ladies in Tapas de Lola restaurant use and it works). Add a slice of orange for garnish. In Spain this is served in tapas bars and as a party drink.

3. Kefir

There are several Irish brands to recommend including King of Kefir (I especially like their Lemongrass and Ginger’ edition) and the recently arrived BKultured from East Cork. Look in shops like Ardkeen Stores, Urru in Bandon, Quay Co-Op, and Organico.

4. Non-Alcoholic Irish craft beer

I do not recommend non-alcoholic lager from the big brewers as it is even worse tasting than their regular beer. Instead look to Dot Brew Fruit Ale, Wicklow Wolf Moonlight Hoppy Ale or their Mixed Berry Sour. Kinnegar also have a couple of options.

5. Wine Hollow Leg

Wine Hollow Leg appeared on shelves just a few days before Christmas 2022 — an initiative of Ronan Farrell of WineLab, MisterS owner Jamie O’Toole, and winemaker Pablo Martinez (all trustworthy people).

Wines are from organic grapes and there is an Albariño, a Cabernet, and a Sparkling Albariño. I also recommend Leitz Ein-Zwei-Zero Riesling and Five-Point Zero, both from a quality German producer whose regular wines have appeared on this page. Faber non- alcoholic Sparkling Rosé is also worth a try.

Hollow Leg Alcoholic-Free Cabernet from Spain offers ripe cherry and strawberry fruits with weight and texture and lingering dried cherry flavours.

The Hollow Leg Albariño has a slight spritz and pleasing white peach fruits and the fizz has an engaging lemony tang on the finish.