From handbags to homeware: Orla Kiely shares design secrets

The other — who was also a housemate at the time — is as soignée about homeware as she is about catwalk style. Soon Orla Kiely’s motifs crept across our kitchen table oilcloths as well as jostling for position in my buddy’s keenly curated wardrobe.

So, when the queen of prints herself touches down in Cork to launch her furniture range I seize the chance to discover some design secrets.

Orla perches on a sofa from her own collection at Caseys Furniture on Oliver Plunkett Street.

It’s storm season in Cork and comfort is king.

“This collection of furniture was designed to bring comfort and ultimately joy to a room,” says Orla.

“Mid-century modern has always been a reference in my design which can be seen in the shapes and styles. I love colour and pattern which I would say is the focus of this collection.”

Does she have particular favourite pieces? “I especially like the Dorsey sofa and the Callan armchair and although they are not a set they complement each other beautifully,” according to the designer.

“All the pieces are handmade to order, beautifully constructed with comfort in mind.”

Orla started her career in fashion. She graduated from the National College of Art and Design, following this with a master’s degree in knit from the Royal College of Art.

Famous fans of Orla Kiely’s clothing include Kate Middleton, Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung and Keira Knightley.

Does she enjoy designing for the home more than for the runway? “As long as you have passion for design I feel the principles are the same. 

"Fashion moves faster which is exciting and challenging but I love homeware because it’s for where we relax and can truly be ourselves,” she says.

“While homeware is a very important part of my design world and I enjoy working on it very much, we started the brand with bags and accessories.

“We design new prints for this category every season to keep it inspiring and fresh and I always love that a bag is something we all use every day. It can really lift your spirits and give an outfit a pop.”

Famously, the Dubliner started designing those legendary handbags at her own dining room table — does she still pull up a pew at a particular spot at home?

“I design at home and at our studio. At home, we have a bright room with a big window facing north and the light is beautiful,” she says.

“I have an easel for painting and a desk for designing. At work, it’s more about working with the team and collaborating.

“Home is now London with Dermott, my husband, and two lovely dogs. Our two sons are grown up. We’ve been in the city for years and enjoy what it has to offer. 

"For creatives, there are endless things to do and to inspire. Meanwhile, Dublin will always be my childhood home. Family, friends, the sea, the mountains, and the unique vibe that Dublin has. I go back a lot!”

Munster connections mean a lot to the designer too: “My father was from Tipperary town and we used to go there as children to visit our grandmother and relatives, it was a very special place for him.”

Orla and Dermott were childhood sweethearts. “We met through friends many years ago,” she says.

I want to know how their creative partnership works — Dermott [Rowan] is renowned for dealing with the business side of things, leaving Orla free to design.

“Working and living together doesn’t suit everyone but it seems to work well for us — we’re never short of conversation!” says Orla.

“We have our individual strengths. For Dermott, it’s business and for me, it’s the creative, although we happily dip into each other’s world when we need a second opinion.”

Orla embarked on her path to the catwalk by creating uniforms for post office workers, with fellow Irish designer Paul Costelloe. “I worked in Paul Costelloe’s shop on Saturdays when I was a student,” she says.

“After I graduated and before I moved to London he very kindly offered me a job assisting him on the post office uniform project, a great experience learning about the design and production process and following through from start to finish. We are good friends. 

"I left Ireland in search of a full-time design position which I found working for Esprit, at the time an exciting company. I left after four years to become a student again! A tough decision but I knew it was the right one.”

Those celebrated Orla Kiely images are now part of our design landscape.

Orla has always spoken of her love for retro patterns from the 1950s and 1960s as well as her passion for Scandinavian design. Where does she find muses – are they in the everyday?

“Inspiration strikes at any time especially when you need it!” she agrees.

“I find I can dig out something strong from years stored in the back of my mind. As a student in Dublin, I loved Stock Shop, a store on South King Street that specialised in Scandinavian design. At the time, it was how I discovered Scandinavian design and the brands that are still going strong today. 

"My passion for retro and vintage and mid-century has come from a love of a good flea market, and London and Paris during my travels.”

Does she have a favourite buy, for her home or herself? “One of my favourite things is a wonderful giant oil painting from the degree show at the RCA. I was drawn to the work of Sig Norskov, a fine art graduate. The colour and texture are just how I love it — and it’s on a huge scale! I was lucky to have one wall at home where it fits beautifully.”

Orla’s own passion for arts and crafts dates back to when she was a very young child, she says. “I always loved being creative, drawing, painting, sewing, knitting, crocheting, I was always busy as a child. I learnt good creative skills as a student but it’s hard to keep them up with so much technology these days. 

"In recent months, I have gone back to painting, drawing and pottery. There are some new skills to learn but it’s so enjoyable and good for the soul.”

What is it like to see her prints leap from her imagination onto everything from the catwalk to cars and even a London bus, as was the case at one stage? “It’s always incredibly rewarding to see your work out in the world,” she says.

How does the Orla Kiely label consider our ever-increasing need to focus on sustainability? “I have always considered the environment since starting out. We were and are mindful about natural fibres, minimal packaging, and designing products to be timeless and endure,” says Orla.

“We pay attention to sustainability, using recycled materials where possible, water-based biodegradable coatings and BCI cottons. We work with a wonderful team of women in Madagascar supporting their craft on our raffia baskets and we work with a charity called Trees For Cities in the UK to plant trees where they are needed.”

Does Orla have a key design secret that can transform our living space? “Don’t be afraid of colour. Take a risk! If you think it’s adventurous, be even braver, go a little bit further. It’s never as wild in reality as you think,” she says.

• orlakiely.com
• caseys.ie