The Skin Nerd's pro guide to men’s skincare
The Skin Nerd: Men are spending more time and money on grooming – and the skincare industry is here for it.
Considering that the men’s skincare market was virtually non-existent before the start of this millennium, it’s come a LONG way in recent years.
In fact, according to EDITED Retail Intelligence platform, the global men’s skincare market will earn over $23 billion by the end of the year and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 6.2% from 2020 to 2027.
With beauty spending among men increasing, the growing number of male celebrity skincare ranges (including Harry Styles and Idris Elba to name a few) have been cited as forces helping to drive the demand.
Estée Lauder Companies have even enlisted a British football club as its first-ever skin care partner – increasing the visibility of skincare usage by the male sex amongst an even broader demographic.
This news warms my nerdie heart, as I believe that skincare is always a place for inclusivity. Put simply, we all have skin, and it needs to be taken care of by everyone.
But can the males in your life simply borrow your bathroom staples or is it necessary for them to invest in their own, dedicated formulas?
First, is men's skin different from women's? The simple answer is yes!
Men’s skin is physiologically different to women’s skin, and this is mostly down to testosterone.
Testosterone is a sex hormone that is produced by men and women but significantly more so in males.
Androgens such as testosterone affect factors such as the thickness and texture of the skin, amount of hair growth and how much sebum (oil) the skin’s sebum glands produce.
As men have bucketloads of testosterone, men’s skin tends to be both oilier and thicker. In fact, men’s skin is said to be 25% thicker than women’s skin!
This reinforced skin barrier certainly helps when it comes to ageing, often helping them to appear more “ageless” when standing beside a female of the same age.
Men have more collagen too, which also helps them retain a youthful plumpness.
Of course, lifestyle factors also play a part in the condition of the skin just as they would women, so alcohol consumption, smoking, and neglecting to use sun protection all impact on the skin you see before you.
Despite several notable biological differences, for the most part, the concerns that women have about their skin and those that men have about their skin are the same and can be addressed in the same way.
For this reason, I generally believe that men should be using the same routine as women: cleansing the skin twice daily, hydrating with serum and protecting with SPF and anything else their specific skin may need.
When it comes to problem shooting and one-off treatments, this is dependent upon individual skin needs but just like their female counterparts, I recommend that men do NOT use mechanical exfoliators (e.g. gritty scrubs or brushes/tools) and should exfoliate gently using acids such as glycolic or lactic acid.
The skin may be thicker, but harsh scrubs can still damage the surface of the epidermis, so it’s important to avoid this.
Men with beards may find breakouts an issue because men have larger pores and more of them. Add a beard to the mix and you’ve got a recipe for congestion unless you target any excess oil production.
Whether man or woman, if blemishes are a concern, what the skin needs is salicylic acid.
The difference would be that men may be able to tolerate the use of stronger products due to the thickness of their skin – for example, a woman with congestion may be advised to use IMAGE Clear Cell Clarifying Salicylic Acid Gel Cleanser (€45, theskinnerd.com) two evenings a week, but a man may be able to use it more frequently (3-4 times a week).
Facial skincare products for men were first available around the start of this millennium.
Today, there’s an ever-growing market for dedicated men’s skincare ranges but typically these products do not contain anything that you couldn’t find in general or “women’s” skincare.
These ranges are, however, powerfully marketed to appeal to the ‘male eye’ and are branded in traditionally ‘masculine’ uniform colours such as black, dark grey and navy.
Admittedly, you’d be forgiven for thinking that this is not the era to be concerned about such things, but recent research has confirmed that gendered 'for men' branding is still preferred by male consumers.
It may also be helpful when it comes to encouraging the older generation to buy skincare as despite the major uptake in the number of men purchasing skincare, research has revealed that the decision to use facial skincare products is heavily influenced by age, with younger men more likely to commit to a regular skincare regime.
The study highlighted older men as being more sceptical of the value of skincare, possibly due to generational differences and traditional views of masculine ideals.
Keen to lessen any outdated stigma surrounding the usage of skincare, many brands have adopted gender-neutral campaigns but if there is still a demand and it is useful in encouraging the adoption of good skincare habits, I see no harm in shopping in the ‘for him’ section.
One thing to be aware of though, is that a lot of men’s skincare is heavily scented and packed with sensitising ingredients.
Shaving products can be particularly problematic to the skin barrier, with shaving foam often full of drying alcohols that dehydrate the skin and shaving balm typically just silicone – which is not always bad when used with beneficial ingredients but not ideal when being used to soothe sore skin post-shave.
An alcohol-free alternative is Yon-Ka for Men Lotion YK (€40, yonka.ie). This non-stripping aftershave tonic contains essential citrus oils and Yon-Ka’s signature Quintessence Yon-Ka blend of soothing essential oils, meaning it is kinder to the skin barrier but leaves it lightly scented too.
Like women’s skin, men’s skin needs hydrating ingredients, vitamin A, antioxidants, omegas and acids.
However, when discussing men and skincare, I always stress the importance of SPF usage.
According to Cancer Research UK, men’s skin cancer rates have increased by over 50% in the past decade.
Research shows that men are the worst when it comes to applying sunscreen, with a recent study revealing that 83% of male participants admitted not wearing daily sunscreen.
Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in Ireland, with nine out of every 10 cases caused by UV rays from the sun or sunbeds.
This means that SPF is key, for everyone, all year round.
It is also important to check your moles and freckles using the A B C D E technique (asymmetry, border, colour, diameter, evolving) and to go to your GP if you notice anything unusual.
