Learning to 'let it go' on the slopes in Andorra as I learn to ski for the first time

Getting to the beginners’ area is a journey in itself, the gondola taking you from the town to an altitude above 1,000m. We pass over a black slope, which was used earlier this year for the skiing World Cup finals, and as we do, my mind questions how any one could survive skiing down it.

Our instructor, Martin, is full of encouragement, not just Elsa quotes, despite some mishaps (falling off the rope tow is a rite of passage for all newcomers, I’m told).

“Speed is your friend,” is another tip to help us on our way.

As the morning progresses, our standards are rising. Instructions such as push left to go right, push right to go left start to make sense and the enjoyment levels increase. Safety is key for everyone on the mountain, and the need to stay in control and be aware of what’s around us is reinforced regularly.

The views across the valley are spectacular and the whole area is alive with skiers. Grandvalira is the largest skiable area in the Pyrenees, and one of the largest in Europe, with a total of 303km of slopes across the six resorts. There are nine resorts in this tiny country with a surface area of just 468 km². With eight million visitors a year, ski holidays are a major part of Andorran life, making up 35% of the country’s economy.

After two hours of instruction, we are let loose to practice what we have learned. But first, an early apres-ski is in order (a midi-ski, if you like).

Taking in the views of this Pyrenean resort from a sunlit terrace surrounded by enthusiastic skiers of all ages, the attraction of the holiday becomes as clear as the blue sky above.

For the next couple of hours on the slopes, Topflight’s regional manager Frank, whose love for skiing is infectious, offers more encouragement, mixed with a few vital tips.

Having worked up an appetite, we stop for lunch at the Wine & Meat Bar by Jean Leon. Skis and poles stacked outside, we head in for a well-deserved break. Afterwards, the more advanced in the party join resort manager Jon to ski back down to the town.

Soldeu is a family-friendly resort, but offers plenty of options for apres-ski. Before heading out, however, the wonderful wellness and spa area of Hotel Park Piolets & Spa is calling me. Offering the perfect way to unwind, a session here eases out the aches and pains from the day’s exertions. The thermal area features a heated indoor pool with massage jets, a contrast bath, sauna, Turkish bath, sensation shower and range of relaxation space.

That evening, we dine at Sol i Neu Restaurant in Soldeu. Cosy and stylish, the restaurant offers a menu of local cuisine that has been guided by Michelin-star chefs. Asking for a recommendation proves very helpful, and we replenish our energy dining on  outstanding food and wine.

Next morning it’s back to the slopes, this time a short trip to the neighbouring resort of Pas de la Casa. Topflight’s resort manager, Jordan, takes us in hand here, and after a visit to the ski hire shop, it’s a short walk to the slopes. The ski runs in Pas de la Casa conveniently finish in the middle of the town with the majority of apartments in the lively resort located just minutes from the slopes. After some early runs on the small slopes, our instructor, Marta, decides to expand our horizons and move us up the piste.

With plenty of guidance our confidence grows, and we hop on a chair lift for a longer run. The views from higher up are spectacular and on this beautiful sunny day, I couldn’t imagine a nicer place to be. We stop again for lunch, the warm sunshine brightening the valley and enhancing my maiden ski trip

On or final evening, we head for Andorra la Vella, the capital of this principality.A half hour from Soldeu. first stop is the Caldea Centre, the largest thermal spa in Southern Europe. With dedicated zones for all the family, as well as separate areas for kids and adults, visitors can enjoy a complete wellness experience in the thermal waters.

The Shopping Mile is perhaps the main attraction in the city with 2,000 shops, many luxury names selling at duty-free prices that offer a significant discount to those of us from the EU.

A recent addition to the city is Gran Casino Andorra, whose twinkling lights beckon after dark. Opened earlier this year, visitors can try their luck in three different areas — at the slot machines, the Black Jack and Poker tables or in the sports betting arena.

If you fancy a flutter on the next ski-ing champion, I’m probably not the pony worth backing... just yet.

How to get there

• Topflight (topflight.ie) offer ski holidays in Andorra. Return flights from Dublin to either Toulouse or Barcelona, with transfers to accommodation at all the resorts in the principality.

Where to stay

• A week’s stay at the 5-star Hotel Park Piolets & Spa in Soldeu costs from €1,184pps travelling on January 7, 14, or 21, 2024,
  including return flights from Dublin to Toulouse, return transfers to Soldeu, seven nights accommodation with breakfast and seven evening meals, all taxes and the services of Topflight’s Soldeu-based resort manager.
• A ski room is on site, and getting to the slopes is easy with the hotel just three minutes from the gondola station. A complimentary shuttle bus takes guests there.

Lift pass

• Soldeu is situated in a 210km connected ski area — Grandvalira — which rivals many top European ski regions. The Grandvalira resorts ski pass gives you access to 64 lifts and 139 slopes.
• The skiing area in Soldeu transforms into a golf course in the summer. The 9-hole par 33 course, at 2,250m is the highest in the Pyrenees.

Where to eat and drink

• Hotel Park Piolets & Spa has three restaurants, with a fourth planned. Dinner in Buffet by Andrea Tunbarello offers a wide range — try the intriguingly named English Soup for dessert.
• Cuisine in the Michelin-star Sol i Neu in Soldeu is overseen by chef Francis Paniego and focuses on traditional cuisine with a contemporary edge. Ask for recommendations from the staff.
• Up on the slopes, the Wine & Meat Bar by Jean Leon is a classy way to enjoy lunch after an energetic morning on the piste. The restaurant can be accessed from the gondola.
• A number of venues liven up the evenings in Soldeu. The Harp boasts live music every night, while Fat Alberts really gets going into the small hours.
• In Pas de la Casa, La Terrasse Lucien beside the ski lifts has an extensive menu,,with the outdoor dining area ideal on a sunny afternoon.
• Gran Casino Andorra in Andorra la Vella has four restaurants to suit all pockets. The tasting menu, accompanied by an excellent Rioja is outstanding.