Wine with Leslie: As sugar levels in wine surge, thank god for Bordeaux
Red Bordeaux is usually 13-13.5% ABV and has around 1g of sugar per litre
Wines are getting sweeter and more alcoholic and I hate it. Don’t get me wrong: if a wine is well made and balanced in terms of fruit, structure and acidity then an alcohol level of 14.5% is not necessarily a problem.
However, the success of Dada, 19 Crimes and Apothic has led to a huge increase in sugar levels — wine consumers often talk dry wine, but buy sweet.
Thank God for Bordeaux. Red Bordeaux is usually 13-13.5% ABV and has around 1g of sugar per litre — Dada has 11g, 19 Crimes has 12g and Apothic has around 16g.
I realise it is only a few weeks since I wrote about Bordeaux but I’m returning to the subject thanks to a remarkable tasting organised by Searsons who invited Gonzague and Claire Lurton who, between them, manage three Grand Cru Classé Bordeaux — Haut Bages-Libéral (Pauillac), Ferrière (Margaux) and Durfort-Vivens (Margaux).
Both Gonzague and Claire were born into famed Bordeaux wine families yet practice organic and biodynamic viticulture.
This is easy enough in sunny dry places like Sicily, but in Bordeaux’s damp climate with its Atlantic influence is considerably more difficult.
Relying solely on herbal tisanes and a little copper sulphate to keep disease away is risky, not to mention the drop in production compared to conventional viticulture.
We tasted their full range of wines including 1st and 2nd wines from each Château and all tasted utterly of their terroir, even the zero sulphur Ceres wine.
Highlights were the two featured wines today 2014 Durfort-Vivens and Ceres 2020. The 2016 Durfort-Vivens had a little more weight and depth than the 2014 but perhaps less of the floral pleasures.
Ferrière 2012 meanwhile had good heft for the vintage with dried black fruits and lingering black cherry tones.
The Searson’s Autumn Bordeaux Offer is at searsons.com and you pay VAT and duty on delivery. I find this a brilliant way to buy fine wine as you pay in two instalments.
Meanwhile, Lidl and Aldi both held tastings last week to present their Autumn range and my favourite red wines were all from Bordeaux.
A chance to meet sommeliers and wine professionals and taste a selection of wines. Tickets: €25 via SommIT.ie Conference from 8-10th October
This is young and will mellow and improve over the next 3-5 years. Bright blackcurrant fruit aromas, juicy dark berry fruits on the palate, supple and concentrated with elegance and weight. I also liked the Ch. Grand Mazerolles 2020 (€11.99) which had rounded ripe fruit flavours - softer, but perhaps less complex than the Moulin.
New in Aldi since last week, this is a typical Médoc blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (35%) plus Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Blackcurrant, cassis and lively dark fruit aromas, still young and will develop further, but even in its youthful state it has largely integrated tannins and a good balance between fruit, texture and acidity.
One of two new Rosé in Aldi this week. This is pleasingly dry (under 2g per litre), with floral and bright red fruit aromas (strawberry, red currant) Ch. Grand Mazerolles reveals creamy strawberry fruits at first followed by citrus freshness with tangerine, lemon and lime. The other new rosé is a soft juicy Specially Selected Clare Valley (€8.99) rosé which is noticeably simpler but still pleasurable.
This is exclusive to the family-owned Molloys off-licence chain, always worth a visit. Dark red centre fading to crimson at the rim. Mature savoury fruit aromas with touches of cooked plum and a touch of jamón. Meaty and fruity with layers of red and darker fruits, elegant and balanced, with plum skin flavours lingering pleasantly on the finish.
This is reduced from €40 and is a total bargain at this price. Named for the Roman God of Agriculture (Demeter in Greek) this is a rare zero-added sulphur Bordeaux that clearly tastes of the Médoc. 100% Merlot this is weighty and ripe, dark and supple, concentrated but elegant but also full flavoured and juicy with layers of black fruits. Utterly delicious.
Gonzague Lurton believes this is the first vintage where the biodynamic production is properly noticeable. From an excellent underrated vintage this has gorgeous plush plum fruits with cedar, spice and floral violet notes intermingled. Full flavoured, almost lush, with layered dark fruits, violet sweeties on the mid palate, balanced and complex with an endless finish. Order in cases of six and treat yourself.
Larkins are Wicklow-based and have created some excellent lagers in recent years as well as more creative beers such as a Coffee Rye Double IPA that I featured here in 2019.
This IPA is described as ‘American’ and 'not East Coast or West Coast just great!'. A very fair claim.
Brewed with Amarillo, Chinook, Centennial, Magnum and Simcoe hops this pours a hazy yellow gold with aromas of mango, vanilla and grapefruit.
On the palate, it is refreshing and crisp with pleasing ripe fruit flavours balanced by hop bitterness, lemony acidity and plenty of IBU (international bitterness units) — certainly enough to please 95% of hop-heads.
