Extremadura: Your guide to an undiscovered Spanish gem

If, like me, your first thoughts when someone mentions Spain are sun, sea, sand, and sangria, then the region of Extremadura will be a revelation.

During our four days, we managed to pack in a lot of sightseeing, activities and food — and then some more food — but it feels as though we barely scratched the surface.

Located beside the border with Portugal, the region is something of an untouched gem and is known as “the land of discoverers”.

There are six main cities that make up Extremadura: Zafra, Trujillo, Badajoz, Cáceres, Plasencia, and Mérida. We visited the latter three.

Both Cáceres and Mérida are designated Unesco World Heritage Sites and havens for history and architecture buffs.

The people of Extremadura — whether they are locals or expats — take great pride in the land and its rich history ensuring that they work with it rather than disrupt.

The hotels we visited serve as great examples of how to cater to tourists without destroying that which makes a place worth visiting. Dublin City planners would do well to take note.

There were converted castles and old olive oil mills while others invested in the land, becoming a haven for the local wildlife.

Extremadura has become a hugely popular destination for bird watchers, stargazers, and, most importantly, the foodies.

We began our trip in Plasencia in the northern part of the region — around a three-hour drive from the airport in Madrid.

Just a one-night stay at the Palacio de Carvajal y Girón Hotel and I was sorry to leave so quickly. The hotel is a late 16th-century Renaissance palace and has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest.

We took a gorgeous boat trip across the Gabriel y Galán Reservoir to Granadilla.

Did I enjoy cruising across the water in the blazing sunshine enjoying freshly picked cherries while learning about the area? Yes.

But what I loved about Panthos (the group that ran the boat trip) is that as well as being respectful of the environment, they also work on the basis of inclusivity.

The group’s philosophy is that experiences should be open to all and they seek to make all of their activities adaptable to suit people’s different limitations.

Granadilla was one of the most fascinating stops on our trip as it is a full-on ghost town — it even has opening hours.

Founded in the ninth century by the Moors, the land was confiscated by the government in 1955 in order to build a reservoir which forced the residents to leave due to flood risk. The final residents left in 1964.

Thankfully, even though the town remains uninhabited, restoration work has been ongoing since the 1980s and parts of it seem frozen in time.

From here, we set off to enjoy our first Spanish lunch which was just a tad different from the hotel buffet-style meals I was used to while on holidays.

Remember the ‘Be Our Guest’ scene in Beauty and the Beast where dish after dish appears in front of Belle in a seemingly endless stream of food? That is how I would describe lunches here.

Of course, the main problem was that every dish was delicious and impossible to resist. Full to the gills, I still ate whatever was put in front of me.

It is not unusual for the meal to last two hours and, happily, it is not unusual for it to be accompanied by a couple of glasses of wine.

Our first lunch was by far my favourite. Not surprising considering it was at the Michelin-star restaurant, Versátil.

Run by Alejandro Hernández, alongside his brothers Jesús David and José Luis, Versátil is a small and welcoming place. Fancy enough that my handbag got its own stool, but not so much that I felt out of place in my casual outfit.

Many find it strange that the Hernández brothers didn’t take their culinary skills to a big city, but their love for their hometown is felt in the dishes and the atmosphere of the restaurant. Be warned though, there is a three-month waiting list to get a table here.

On to the next little slice of heaven, Aqua et Oleum, a boutique hotel which was originally an old olive oil mill. A serene spot nestled amid the Sierra de Gata mountains complete with a babbling brook, an olive grove and a vineyard.

This little oasis in the middle of rural Spain might be the last place you would expect a furniture and interior designer from Texas but this is where Joseph Shortell chose to open his hotel.

Having visited the region previously, he said it was like “returning to a land that had called me since then”.

The small compound is a short drive or two-hour hike to the ruins of Castelo de Trevejo which sits atop a large hill where you can sip a drink and take in a gorgeous sunset.

Next up, we learned all there is to know about olive oil and how it’s made. I am truly an olive oil connoisseur following our tour of As Pontis Olive Oil Mill and the tasting we enjoyed at Hotel Rural A Velha Fábrica.

A lovely little hideaway in Cáceres, you can choose from their duplex hotel rooms or their country-cute family apartments. It is hard to go wrong somewhere that was voted the best rural hotel in Spain in 2019.

Then we made a whistle-stop visit to Habitat Cigüeña Negra for lunch. Steak lovers should be sure to try their Retwagyu meat (a cross between the Retinta and Wagyu breeds) that is produced exclusively on the estate.

That evening we visited the stunning, secluded El Sosiego, a place that radiates peace and tranquility. The 10-hectare estate has three rooms in its main building and four completely separate rooms with their own terrace.

A large family group or just a group of friends could easily book out the entire place for a getaway.

There was a mouth-watering feast to be enjoyed and the chef went to great lengths to accommodate any dietary restrictions among the group.

I was somewhat devastated that our planned star gazing wasn’t able to go ahead as there was heavy cloud cover. The lack of light pollution in the area makes it the perfect location to see thousands of stars. But, it is just another reason to come back and enjoy a stay here.

Day three began with a stop in Coria where we visited the Cathedral which houses what is said to be the shroud used by Jesus at the Last Supper. The Cathedral itself is magnificent and well worth a visit.

A tour of Cáceres revealed a city that is steeped in history, something that is revered and protected here. Every corner you turn is another chapter in its rich story.

Meanwhile, fans of Game of Thrones and House of the Dragon will see some familiar locations as both series spent time filming on its unique streets. 

One day here was simply not enough to delve into all the history, art, food and architecture that Cáceres is known for.

Our final night was spent at Illusion Mérida Palace hotel, a colourful and lively spot located in the centre of Mérida close to a number of great restaurants, bars, and shops. 

After a delicious breakfast at the hotel, we met up with our tour guide for a walk around the city which boasts some of the finest Roman ruins in all of Spain.

If you are touring Cáceres and/or Mérida, I cannot recommend our guide Marco Mangut enough. 

His knowledge of the cities is incredible and he provides you with so much information without feeling as though you are sitting through an extremely long lecture. He was an absolute joy to spend time with.

The Theatre and Amphitheatre are absolute must-sees. They are so well preserved and it makes for a great experience to walk through them. The Theatre hosts the Classical International Theatre Festival each summer.

Finally, it was time to head to Seville airport. While I don’t think I could look at food for about 24 hours after getting home, I would absolutely do — and eat — it all again. 

My idea of what a Spanish holiday entails has been radically changed and I am already coaxing friends to join me on another trip to Extremadura to see what other hidden gems it has to offer.

The details:

• Tourist board: turismoextremadura.com/en
• Palacio de Carvajal y Girón Hotel: palaciocarvajalgiron.com/en
• Panthos: panthos.es
• Versátil: versatilrural.com
• Aqua et Oleum: aquaetoleum.com
• As Pontis Olive Oil Mill: aspontis.com/en
• Hotel Rural A Velha Fábrica: avelhafabrica.es
• Habitat Cigüeña Negra: habitatcn
• El Sosiego: elsosiego.com
• Illusion Mérida Palace hotel: en.ilunionmeridapalace.com
• Marco Mangut tour guide: guiadeextremadura.es/en