Restaurant Review: Dublin's Dash Burger is a smash — and Clonakilty addition is revelatory

The humble burger is having a moment, yes, another one. 

Back in the early 2000s, we were inundated with so-called “Gourmet Burger” restaurants which began as a trend in New Zealand and then hit London and Dublin. I was never much of a fan.

My problem with the Gourmet Burger concept is that they are almost impossible to eat as nobody has a mouth that big — if you have to use a knife and fork it’s no longer a burger.

A few of these joints are still around but far more common these days are Bunsen Burger and some copycat clones — Bunsen Burger is much more to my taste thanks to their luscious, meaty simplicity but I wish they fried their onions.

Now there is a new kid on the block called Dash Burger which has been called the “Best Burger in Dublin” by several people I trust including Shamim de Brún, a fellow food and drink editor.

The inspiration behind Dash came from the acclaimed Burger Historian George Motz who has championed the return of the “Smash” Burger, a style of burger that dates to the earliest days of the American Hamburger. 

Motz did a pop-up in Dash in 2022 and may be back next year. In simple terms, a baby-fist-sized scoop of meat is placed on a hot plate and smashed down to a burger shape as it cooks. 

Lots of thinly sliced onions are added on top before the burger is flipped with the patty held together by its own fat content, remaining crumbly with lacey crisp edges.

According to Motz, this version originates in depression-era Oklahoma.

Dash Burger on Kevin St is the original venue [another branch is on Capel St] and is simply appointed with a short menu. Myself, Shamim, and the Physicist ordered almost everything.

First up, the Double Smash Burger (€9.95) which was cooked as described above with added American cheese, pickles, and secret sauce on a lightly toasted potato bun.

The bun is made with 20% mashed potato and is pillowy and light, yielding to a light pressing to allow the burger to easily fit even the most delicate mouth.

The umami hit was immediate, the mix of sweet and caramelised onions combined with the rich beef flavours and refreshed by the sauce and good quality pickles. The lacy edges add a touch of crunch for contrast and the overall effect is rather wondrous.

Next, the Chipotle Double Smash (€9.95) which added pleasing earthy chilli heat and dusky sweetness from Adobo sauce, and finally the Clonakilty Black Pudding Smash (€9.95) with added black pudding, spicy fig jam, and smoked onion mayo.

This last was revelatory thanks to the richness of the black pudding and the sweetness from the fig jam.

Panko Fried Chicken Tenders (€9.95) were crispy without and tender within, a solid tender but I’d like to see a little more seasoning in the crumb.

Jalapeño Poppers (€9.95) were crispy and moreish — filled with good quality cream cheese which contrasted nicely with the sharp green peppers. I’d have loved more kick as these had just a whisper of heat, however, perhaps I’m overestimating the heat tolerance of the Irish palate.

Dash is built for speed so they are not making their own fries which is perfectly fine, but I think they can find better chips than the ones they are currently using which don’t taste of much of anything.

You know them — thin and uniform with bits of skin left on for no (good) culinary reason — a thousand restaurants use them and I really wish they would stop.

For drinks, there was a simple choice of Estrella, Whiplash Graciosa Tropical IPA, or Kickback Pale Ale. Of course, we went for the Whiplash and both worked well with the Graciosa shading the Pale Ale.

In conclusion, Dash Burgers are indeed stunningly good and worth going out of your way to try. Just don’t bother with the chips.

The Tab

Three Double Smash Burgers, Fries, Jalapeño Poppers, Chicken Tenders and four Craft Beers cost €78.10

The Verdict:

• Food: 8/10
• Drink: 6/10
• Service: 8/10
• Ambiance: 8/10
• Value: 9.5/10

In a Sentence: Dash Burgers are indeed as good as everyone claims, they approach the Platonic ideal of burgers.